Usually on any trip, it's just work, work, work, work. I can't tell you how many places I've been to where I can't say I've really seen anything. Occasionally, we have some down time and we make the most of it. But on this trip, the WH arranged what some called a "field trip" to take the media to the DMZ and I can honestly say it was one of the most educational, informative trips I've ever taken.
We got on a bus and drove about 45 minutes to the DMZ while POTUS was busy doing meetings for the summit. We got to Camp Bonifas and had to wait for our military escort/tour guide. Let me stop for a moment and explain that before this trip, most of my knowledge of Korea came from watching M*A*S*H reruns with my dad. He's seen all of them and my basic understanding of the Korean war includes Radar and Hawkeye and Klinger. Sadly, watching M*A*S*H episodes leaves a lot to be desired in the actual history. My understanding of the conflict with North Korea was definitely deepened to a whole new level from the tour of the DMZ.

Once our military escort/tour guide met up with us, we went to the DMZ visitor's center for a presentation on the history of the DMZ. I think I was a sponge because I couldn't keep track of all the interesting facts the major was telling us.

We loaded into a UN bus and started our way to the Joint Security Area. Along the way, we were told that we were not allowed to take pictures until our guide told us to and that we were not allowed to point or gesture to the North Korean side of the line. We also learned about the ax massacre of 1976 and why it used to be that North Koreans and South Koreans co-existed in this area. You should definitely google it because it's a fascinating story. Bottom line is the North Koreans killed two Americans in a massacre basically over the pruning of one tree. I felt reassured because knowing that the last killing took place before I was born made me feel like the chances of something bad happening to me 24 days before my wedding were extremely small!

The bus stopped at the Freedom House and we were told we had to go inside and wait in two lines until it was time to walk through. The building was rebuilt in 1998 and we were told that it was supposed to be where reunions between South Koreans and their family members who are in North Korea but no reunions have ever taken place. We didn't really tour the building, just waited in line with our cool press armbands they had given for us to wear. We had to wear them because it's part of the armistice apparently. Too bad we had to give them back at the end of the tour.


We walked through the building outside to a building where the armistice was signed. It's basically a conference room. The military demarcation line ran across the middle of the room so half of it is in South Korea, half is in North Korea. (I was standing in North Korea.) Both countries have use of this room but only one at a time. We were instructed that if we did see any North Korean soldiers (which we didn't), we were under no circumstances allowed to communicate with them. Inside the room were two South Korean soldiers standing guard. They were very serious and didn't smile. Our military escort gave us a brief presentation about the historical significance of the Armistice Room and then let us take pictures with the guards and of North Korea outside the window. It was such a surreal experience!



After hanging out in that room, we walked back across to the outside of the Freedom House. We looked across to North Korea and saw their main building. Outside was a North Korean soldier who was looking at us through his binoculars. This was as close to a North Korean that we got. He stared at us for a few minutes but then went back to just standing post.



We were told that we could take pictures but we had to stay in certain parameters and that no gesturing or pointing to the North Korean side. Of course some of my colleagues missed that part but thankfully, nothing happened to us!

After that stop, we went to an South Korean outpost and saw the demarcation line. At that spot, we were surrounded by North Korea on three sides.


On one of the sides, we could see the North Korean village of Kijong-dong. Our military guide told us that the North Koreans refer to it as the Peace Village because it shows how nice it is to live in North Korea. But our guide said that really it is a Propaganda Village because no one actually officially lived there and many buildings had the windows and doors painted on or some were actually only shells of buildings. Unfortunately, nearly all North Koreans live in hunger and poverty. Kijong-dong also has an extremely large flagpole which flies a flag that weighs nearly 600 pounds. They said it was the third largest in the world and constructed to outdo a huge flagpole on the South Korean side.


Our last stop on the tour was a brief pause at the site of the infamous tree incident of 1976. We could see where the tree had eventually been cut down in Operation Paul Bunyan. That's another thing that is totally worth the Google effort. The amount of back-up support to cut down one tree was amazing!!


Nearby, we saw the Bridge to No Return. After the ax massacre, they had 72 hours for the North Koreans to get back on their side. Once across, they were never allowed back into South Korea. There was a movie about it and after being there, I definitely want to see it!

We returned to the visitor's center and we were all set to go to the gift shop. I could think of nothing better than getting a "I've stepped into North Korea" t-shirt. Those gifts would have been the most unique from any trip I've taken. But alas, the gift shop was CLOSED!! We were soooo bummed!!

I guess we'll have to buy souvenirs on the next trip to the DMZ! :) Even with the gift shop closed, it was totally worth it to go on the tour. Like I said, I have a much better understanding of both history and today's conflict. If ever presented with the opportunity to take a tour, I vote that you should totally do it!